Edinburgh Encounters

EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND

Royal Mile

Edinburgh!

              My flight from Belfast landed in Edinburgh airport and I was looking forward to some upcoming stability.  I had covered the last few countries at a very fast pace and I wanted to bring it down a notch in Scotland by staying in one spot for awhile.  I checked into my hostel and immediately headed out to the Royal Mile to experience the nightlife that Doug Christiansen had raved about.  I meandered for a bit in the rain before asking for directions to a bar and was questioned by locals as to why the heck I would want to go there!  They invited me along with them instead.  They were half dorks that were half in the bag but it turned out to be a decent night with some good live music. 

Thank you for your Economic thought, Mr. Smith.

                After such a good experience with the walking tour in Dublin, I was eager to do the same in the historical, cosmopolitan and cultured city of Edinburgh.  The history was even more exciting in Scotland than Ireland but the tour guide’s delivery didn’t even compare to good old Mik from Dublin.  One of the highlights of the tour was the High Kirk of St. Giles, a spectacular church whose crown-shaped spire is an Edinburgh landmark.  The small Thistle chapel inside had an amazing display of mock-Gothic woodcarvings, including one of an angel playing the bagpipes.  The denomination of the church was very complicated throughout the past few centuries but I believe the chapel hosts mass only when the Royal Family comes to visit.

Edinburgh from atop Arthur's Seat

                Speaking of royal family, one could feel their importance throughout the entire city.  Besides seeing the Queen’s face on every pound and pence, the surrounding castles made me feel like I was in some kind of Robin Hood fantasy land.  As if the knights in shiny armor would suddenly come thundering down the cobblestone streets and battle of god vs. evil would take place right on the Royal Mile.  Or maybe Will and Kate would show up in cowboy hats!  There was no way of knowing!  I walked by the lovely 17^th century palace of Holyroodhouse which is the Windsor family’s official Scottish residence.  I took advantage of the unusually sunny and warm weather to climb the steep hill up to Arthur’s Seat, which offered great views over the city and out to the water, also known as the Firth of Forth.  

On top of Arthur's Seat

             The other name buzzing around the city was less royal but just as famous- Harry Potter.  I went by the Elephant Café where JK Rowling wrote her first Harry Potter novel and took some pictures of the Fettes School, which was the inspiration for the Hogwart’s School.  It was no surprise that Rowling felt inspired in such a magical city that also possessed a multitude of spooky ghost stories!  The legendary serial-killing corpse-dealing duo of Burke and Hare were referenced all around in bars and shops.  There was also the Mackenzie poltergeist that had recently resurfaced in the last 15 years and gained popularity throughout the media.  Over 500 people have reported spiritual encounters with this ghost that has left them with scratches or bruises!   There were many ghost tours held in the evening but I didn’t feel like having bad dreams over the next week.

Hogwarts in the background

              I had a nice visit to the newly refurbished Museum of Scotland where I saw the stuffed body of the famous cloned sheep, Dolly.  They had an interesting exhibit on the moral questions surrounding genetically enhanced animals and food. I don’t really care about spots on my apples but they did provide a good defense against potential droughts or global warming.  Unfortunately they don’t know the long term affects and I don’t really want to volunteer myself.  So I am on the natural side until someone else wants to volunteer.

              Unfortunately I missed the famous Fringe Fest in Edinburgh that runs the entire month of August but I did get there in time for the best part (in my opinion)- the fireworks!! I admit that I am a fireworks junkie and enjoy ooing and ahhing like a 7 year-old.  I made a couple hostel friends named Sally and Anna who climbed to the top of Calton Hill that overlooked the city and gave us a clear view of the hour long display of synchronized fireworks being launched within the Edinburgh castle.  It was truly amazing!  They were so different in color and design than back home.  And surprisingly so gentle!  You rarely heard any blast following their illumination.  The blasts were synchronized to the local symphony orchestra playing down below in the Princes Gardens.  Very lovely display…probably the best I’ve ever seen.  Not even the guy yelling, ‘Look! It’s money burning in the sky’ could ruin the fireworks for me- I loved them!

Inside Edinburgh Castle- I would make a good damsel in distress

Canon view from Edinburgh castle

            The main draw of the city was the magnificent Edinburgh castle that was resting on a sheer volcanic rock so I was excited to check it out the following day.  There was an underground prison that was used during the American Revolution, which was cool to see and hear about.  I hadn’t heard America mentioned much since I left so it was good to hear our name finally get in the history books.  I walked through the room where Mary, Queen of Scots gave birth to James VI and got a lasting impression from the Crown Jewels and Stone of Destiny.  But all I could think about was many people had fought for this castle. The castle had changed hands so many times as Scotland repeatedly defended their independence from the greedy British monarch.  There were so many lives lost throughout the many battles to preserve this castle...and now it’s nothing but a walking ground for tourists.  I wonder if this city is actually being haunted by the spirits of those died defending this castle.  I’d be pretty mad too if I gave my life for my country and they turned it into an overpriced spectacle recited by audio guide.

On the advice of Doug Christiansen, I took the bus out to Cramond where I walked out to the island during low tide.  The concrete barracks had been resurrected during WW2 but now served as graffiti grounds for the ignorant and inconsiderate.  It was more mentally than physically difficult to maneuver around all the broken glass and litter.  Scottish punks!  The coolest part of going out to Cramond though was seeing the concrete pylons that remained hidden at high tide.  They were used to keep out stealth submarines during both world wars. 

Clock flower arrangement in Edinburgh

Don't be fooled by this romantic heart.  It marks the location of the old tax collectors in Edinburgh...locals spit on it as they pass!

Another great museum that I visited was the Writers’ Museum that paid tribute to Sir Walter Scott, Robert Louis Stevenson, David Hume and Robert Burns. The guide book didn’t even mention the National Monument at the top of Calton Hill but it’s where I got some of my best pictures!  I just chilled up there for hours and watched the sun go down.   What a fantastic city!  After four days in just Edinburgh, I still felt like there was plenty more to see!