FRIEND OF FOE FRIDAY!!!!!!

This week's edition is no indication of the number of foes I actually met in Paris....


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1) FRIEND!  This woman was a couch surfer in Paris that saw that I was in her area and invited me out for coffee.  She toured me around different neighborhoods in Paris and took me for some mouth-watering crepes in St. Louis.  I even got to experience Paris in the rain- special thanks to her umbrella!

2) FRIENDS!  My hosts!  Yanis (on the left) visited NYC back in March and I met him and his fellow hockey-playing friends in a bar.  He gave me an open invitation to stay with his family if/when I visited Paris.  I don’t know if he really expected a knock on his door 6 months later but he got one!  I stayed with Yanis, his twin brother, and mom in their lovely abode within the suburbs of Paris!  What great hosts!!  Yanis even scraped together enough hockey equipment for me to play with his team during my stay. 

 3) FRIENDS!  This sweet couple took a picture of me in Paris.  We got to talking since they were American and were excited to spill their beans- he had proposed at the Eiffel Tower two days earlier!  They were both very excited to share the news since they had no family or friends with them!  Brownie points to that guy. 

              4)  FRIENDS! Alexia (next to me) contacted me back in March through Couch Surfing because she was visiting NYC. I wasn’t able to host her but I did meet her in the Big Apple while I was visiting in July. Alexia hosted me in Paris for the first few days and was sweet enough to lend me a little black dress so that we could hit up “French Tuesdays” at some swanky bar. The dress codes are strict, the drinks are expensive and the heels are high on Tuesdays in Paris! The other girls were friends of Alexia from Paris, NYC and Brazil. We danced until there were blisters…

I dunno Lloyd...

 PARIS, FRANCE

            The 10 hour overnight bus ride from Edinburgh to London was kind of brutal- slightly hot, pretty uncomfortable, and completely sold out.  We arrived early though so I was able to stretch for 30 minutes before boarding my next bus- only 8 hours more Paris!  I hadn’t researched the English chunnel tickets and I was paying the price aboard smelly buses.  I’ve gotten used to it all at this point though so it really wasn’t that bad.  I was half asleep when we made it to the French border so I gave them my passport while still wearing my green froggy eye mask.  Do you think they were offended by the French ‘frog’ innuendo or could it have gone unnoticed?

Back in March I had received a couch surfing request from a girl named Alexia.  We had coffee in NYC in July and she offered to host me in Paris!  I stayed with Alexia for my first few days in Paris and it was great to come and go from the Universitaire area as I pleased.  The subway systems in Paris were enormous yet so easy to follow.  I don’t know how I would have done with any of this traveling had I not lived in NYC for so long.  Nothing seems too daunting after surviving Rockefeller Center at Christmas time. 

             With the help of Alexia, I set out to experience all the clichés of Paris.  I saw all the must-sees so maybe I’ll start with that.  The Arc de Triomphe was as massive as it was stunning.  I really enjoyed this Parisian landmark during the day- its white marble gave a clean, sharp, sophisticated look that simultaneously encompassed an aura of both new and old.  The Champs Elysees shopping street was my least favorite site- way too many fast-food joints and chain stores.  The street felt so divided since there were 5 lanes of traffic separating the shopping district- there was nothing leisurely about my stroll down this street.  The Place de Concorde was very cool- a gold-tipped obelisk from the temple of Luxor that Napoleon may or may not have stolen from the Egyptians.  It served as a nice Segway into the park and museum district.

Arc de Triomphe

Concorde

I grabbed a baguette from the bakery and some brie from the cheesery and headed toward the Jardin des Tuilleries for a late afternoon snack on an uncomfortable patio folding chair.  A real Parisian man sat down and I enjoyed an hour of conversation.  I listened to him quote his favorite philosophers in an attempt to poetically describe his own views on life and love.  I’m not sure if he really felt this way or if he was shamelessly flirting with me.  Either way, he wore out his welcome and I bid him adieu in search of something more style- ice hockey.

                I met my second host, Yanis, when he visited NYC with 4 of his friends in March.  They all played ice hockey and he promised to host me if I ever came to Paris.  Not only did he allow me to stay with his mother, brother and him in the outskirts of Paris but he also arranged for me to play hockey with his team!  This was incredible considering how much equipment is needed to play.  It’s not like basketball where you throw on some sneakers and run around.  He found everything!  Sure, it was all too big for me and the skates weren’t sharp enough to butter bread but it was so cool!  I tuned out while the captain explained the drills in French and then just jumped in once I knew what they were doing.  My blades chattered at each turn and tapeless stick made it difficult to catch a pass but I don’t think the guys minded.  Yanis went above and beyond to show me a great time- I don’t think there was one other backpacker in Paris playing ice hockey that night! 

The next morning, I was transformed back into a backpacker and continued getting lost… I mean,I continued to effortlessly tour around Paris.  I put my sore muscles to work on the staircase from the metro leading up to the glorious district of Montmarte.  The workout was just as strenuous as the guidebook lead on!  The Sacre Couer (Sacred Heart Church) was lovely as was the city overlook.  I didn’t feel the artistic presence as strongly as others indicated but maybe I hadn’t strayed far enough off the souvenir streets.  Or maybe I lack the artistic spirit.

             As if I hadn’t received enough rewarding culture already, I visited the Louvre and Musee d’Orsay where culture is practically served intravenously.  The dates on the paintings and sculptures were just incomprehensible.  I was starting to feel pretty insignificant in the grand scheme of the universe.  I didn’t even understand the hype behind the infamous Mona Lisa and will guarantee that 99% of the mob surrounding her didn’t either.  I thought there were far more impressive pieces housed in the same room.  In reality, I only saw a fraction of the Louvre and didn’t enjoy it nearly as much as Musee d’Orsay!  Monet, Renoir, Van Gogh, and Picasso were much more rewarding to my non-artistic soul.  I took some pictures of my favorite paintings so that I would never forget them.  In both museums, there were so many impressive forms of expression that I will never live up to.  I blame it on television and blogs.  J

After three days in Paris, I was ready for the main event.  The Eiffel tour was indeed beautiful and I took oodles of pictures as if I were arranging my senior yearbook page.  I didn’t take the elevator ride to the top- not because of the hideous queue but because I realized on this trip that I enjoy looking up to admire, rather than looking down.  My personal photographer (and host), Yanis, was SO patient when trying to capture the perfect picture for me.  I think I enjoyed the ambience more at night but strangers were so useless when it came to taking pictures.   

Special thanks for the stranger that took this horrendous picture.

I experienced some phenomenal weather during my six days in Paris which allowed me to bask in the city’s plethora of parks.  Luxembourg was my favorite by far- just so pretty with its flowers and fountains!  I can see why people fall in love in (and with) Paris since the simple pleasures of life just pump love into the air.  I know I fell head over heels for my baguette while calmly watching the sun set over the Eiffel Tower. 

            As for the title of this blog entry, I have to say I agree with Harry Dunn.  The French ARE assholes.  I respect their love for their culture and their quest in retaining as much as possible in their wonderful city.  But when I ask them for directions IN FRENCH and they repeatedly ignore me until finally saying that they don’t speak English then we have a problem.  I’ve NEVER just blatantly ignored someone on the streets of NYC.  I didn’t understand French but I did understand RUDE.  No one loves the tourist season in their respective town but it’s never an excuse to be an asshole.  Besides a couple exceptions, the French were by far the worst locals I have met on my trip.  I guess someone had to come in last place- Congrats, France.  I’m sure things are different on the countryside but I won’t have a chance to find out during this trip.  I couldn’t be happier to move on to Switzerland.

Shopping in Paris never hurt anyone...

If you'd like to see more pics from Paris:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.932122232427.2367357.1611207&type=1&l=d48550e26a

FOODS I TRIED: croissants, eclairs, baguettes, brie cheese, banana and nutella crepe, chestnut spread with whipped cream, crepe quiche, ham/cheese pizza panini thing...all the food was amazing!

Trendwatch: Paris

              Paris continues to attract trendsetters!  These monks’ vibrant orange robes may as well be translucent since it was their socks + sandals combo that drew my attention!  Was it too cold to wear their Air Jordans?  What do Monks usually wear under there?  I’ve never gotten a good look at their footwear until now.

Trendwatch: Paris

            I know Kawasaki for manufacturing some of the fastest and sleekest jet skis but had no idea they had expanded their production line to include sneakers!  This Parisian male was photographed on the dry platforms of the metro so there is no way of knowing if these sneakers are waterproof and approved for jet skiing.  I’m guessing not.

Trendwatch: Paris

                Melts in your mouth, not in your hand!  This woman painted each one of her toenails a different color- together they kind of look like M&Ms!  I’ve never been so grossed out by M&Ms until now.  Feet are nasty even when they look like chocolate treats.  I like her heels though!

Trendwatch: Paris

This one writes itself.

Trendwatch: Paris

               Daddy’s little girl all grown up!   With colored curly sideburns to boot!  Her hair had been colored so deeply that it looked like yarn.  This horror show was scene at the techno parade in Paris!  And check out the girl next to her giving her the same look I did.

FRIEND OR FOE FRIDAY!!!!!

Just a few worth mentioning this week.  Good luck.


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1)      FRIEND! My brother’s friend from Union college hosted me for a party-hardy night in Belfast!  He took me on his accelerated pub crawl and I like to think that I held my own.  He gave me tons of advice for traveling throughout Europe, the most important being that I stay safe.  I am pretty sure Doug will never let his unborn daughters take a trip like this…but I’ll plant the seed in their ear when the time is right. 

2)      FRIENDS!  I met these two cool chicas in my hostel in Edinburgh.  Sally (from Australia) and Ana (Scotland) were traveling on their own too so we had plenty to talk about.  We got to climb Calton Hill and watch one of the greatest fireworks displays around the world!  It was a great way to end the infamous Fringe festival as well as meet some new friends.

3)      FOE!  You may not be able to tell but this photo was taken in my rear view mirror while I was driving around Scotland.  This guy’s teeth were SO brutal that I had to capture it in a photo.  I’m not sure why dental isn’t included in their “FREE” healthcare but it may be time for a check-up.

4)     FRIENDS!  I met these guys at my hostel in Fort William and took them along for the hike up Ben Nevis.  They did a bang-up job considering their diet consisted of only Snickers bars!!  J  This picture is at the summit!  They were such nice guys that I happily drove them to the Isle of Skye as well.  We toured around the island in the rain and enjoyed some good conversation regarding the dangers of traveling alone, especially for men.   We managed to survive the weirdo Skyewalker hostel and I was able to survive the fumes that emanated from their stinky, saturated clothes hanging in the room. 

Getting high in the Highlands of Scotland

FORT WILLIAMS, SCOTLAND
ISLE OF SKYE, SCOTLAND

NO, NOT THAT KIND OF HIGH!  As if...

View from Sterling Castle

            I picked up the rental car from the airport and was determined to have a better time on the Scottish countryside than I did on the Irish countryside.  I bought the best friend money could buy- GPS.  We got along extremely well and she brought me right to the gates of Sterling Castle without ever muttering, ‘Recalculating.’  Sterling castle was made famous by Mel Gibson, I mean, William Wallace for his famous Battle of Sterling Bridge in 1297 and Robert the Bruce at the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314.  Both battles were influential in the Scottish retaining their independence from the British monarch.

It's official- I'm a princess!

Sterling Castle

Sterling Castle

I headed toward Fort William but the drive took much longer than planned due to the AMAZING landscape along the way.  I HAD NO IDEA SCOTLAND WAS GOING TO BE THIS BEAUTIFUL!!  As soon as I passed the sign welcoming me to the Highlands, this country jumped right into my top 3 favorites!  I weaved along the roads within the green glens and couldn’t believe the amount of waterfalls popping out of every crevice of the surrounding mountains.  I was so excited and I had to capture the look on my face before the sun went down!  What a natural high!  Even the pouring rain couldn’t wash the smile off my face!  Scotland was turning out to be pretty awesome!!

AHHHH!!

Favorite picture from Scotland

Ooooo ahhhhh

Scotland!

          I stayed in a very cozy hostel called Chasing the Wild Goose for the next couple nights- it had lots of character.  My roommate was a super annoying guy from Scotland who insisted on judging me on everything that came out of my mouth.  I was glad when he checked out the next morning.  I drive down to the cute town of Oban that was right on the water.  I had a nice hike up some mountain trail but it was nothing compared to what I would face the next day- Ben Nevis.  Ben Nevis was the highest point in all the United Kingdom and we dominated it in just under 5 hours.  I had recruited a couple guys from the hostel, Mischa from Switzerland and Mario from Germany, to join me for the hike. It was a pretty challenging trail so everyone around us had top-notch hiking gear.  These guys hadn’t planned on any of it though so they just had jeans.  They hadn’t packed food either…just one Snickers bar to split between the two of them.  Boys!  But they motored up and down that mountain and deserved the huge plate of Hagges they had for dinner!

Hike outside Oban

Scottish countryside

Ben Nevis hike

Ben Nevis

We stayed in a weirdo hostel that night in the Isle of Skye.  It was called the Skyewalker hostel and it had life-sized cardboard cutouts of all the star wars characters as well as some disturbing 3-d images.  It was family-run, which means they’re usually cozier.  But this one was a little strange and had too many strict signs to be categorized as cozy. 

En route to Isle of Skye

Soggy Isle of Skye

              It rained for the rest of my time in Skye so I didn’t see the gorgeous blue and green contrast that the isle is known for.  I had a fun time with Mischa and Mario though!  It was great to have company on the road trip and share some laughs!  PLUS, I got to try some of Scotland’s famous Irn Bru.  The sugar-loaded, orange soft drink outsells Coca Cola and every other soft drink every year!  It tasted really good!  It was like drinking original flavored Bazooka Joe.  Yum!  Thank you, Scotland!  Onto France.

Click on this link to see all the other great pictures from Scotland (you don’t need a Facebook account to view the photos):

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.921835701717.2364767.1611207&l=a42322ce01&type=1

FOODS I TRIED- Beer, Hagges (awful- tastes like deer), Iryn Bru (MMM!)

Edinburgh Encounters

EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND

Royal Mile

Edinburgh!

              My flight from Belfast landed in Edinburgh airport and I was looking forward to some upcoming stability.  I had covered the last few countries at a very fast pace and I wanted to bring it down a notch in Scotland by staying in one spot for awhile.  I checked into my hostel and immediately headed out to the Royal Mile to experience the nightlife that Doug Christiansen had raved about.  I meandered for a bit in the rain before asking for directions to a bar and was questioned by locals as to why the heck I would want to go there!  They invited me along with them instead.  They were half dorks that were half in the bag but it turned out to be a decent night with some good live music. 

Thank you for your Economic thought, Mr. Smith.

                After such a good experience with the walking tour in Dublin, I was eager to do the same in the historical, cosmopolitan and cultured city of Edinburgh.  The history was even more exciting in Scotland than Ireland but the tour guide’s delivery didn’t even compare to good old Mik from Dublin.  One of the highlights of the tour was the High Kirk of St. Giles, a spectacular church whose crown-shaped spire is an Edinburgh landmark.  The small Thistle chapel inside had an amazing display of mock-Gothic woodcarvings, including one of an angel playing the bagpipes.  The denomination of the church was very complicated throughout the past few centuries but I believe the chapel hosts mass only when the Royal Family comes to visit.

Edinburgh from atop Arthur's Seat

                Speaking of royal family, one could feel their importance throughout the entire city.  Besides seeing the Queen’s face on every pound and pence, the surrounding castles made me feel like I was in some kind of Robin Hood fantasy land.  As if the knights in shiny armor would suddenly come thundering down the cobblestone streets and battle of god vs. evil would take place right on the Royal Mile.  Or maybe Will and Kate would show up in cowboy hats!  There was no way of knowing!  I walked by the lovely 17^th century palace of Holyroodhouse which is the Windsor family’s official Scottish residence.  I took advantage of the unusually sunny and warm weather to climb the steep hill up to Arthur’s Seat, which offered great views over the city and out to the water, also known as the Firth of Forth.  

On top of Arthur's Seat

             The other name buzzing around the city was less royal but just as famous- Harry Potter.  I went by the Elephant Café where JK Rowling wrote her first Harry Potter novel and took some pictures of the Fettes School, which was the inspiration for the Hogwart’s School.  It was no surprise that Rowling felt inspired in such a magical city that also possessed a multitude of spooky ghost stories!  The legendary serial-killing corpse-dealing duo of Burke and Hare were referenced all around in bars and shops.  There was also the Mackenzie poltergeist that had recently resurfaced in the last 15 years and gained popularity throughout the media.  Over 500 people have reported spiritual encounters with this ghost that has left them with scratches or bruises!   There were many ghost tours held in the evening but I didn’t feel like having bad dreams over the next week.

Hogwarts in the background

              I had a nice visit to the newly refurbished Museum of Scotland where I saw the stuffed body of the famous cloned sheep, Dolly.  They had an interesting exhibit on the moral questions surrounding genetically enhanced animals and food. I don’t really care about spots on my apples but they did provide a good defense against potential droughts or global warming.  Unfortunately they don’t know the long term affects and I don’t really want to volunteer myself.  So I am on the natural side until someone else wants to volunteer.

              Unfortunately I missed the famous Fringe Fest in Edinburgh that runs the entire month of August but I did get there in time for the best part (in my opinion)- the fireworks!! I admit that I am a fireworks junkie and enjoy ooing and ahhing like a 7 year-old.  I made a couple hostel friends named Sally and Anna who climbed to the top of Calton Hill that overlooked the city and gave us a clear view of the hour long display of synchronized fireworks being launched within the Edinburgh castle.  It was truly amazing!  They were so different in color and design than back home.  And surprisingly so gentle!  You rarely heard any blast following their illumination.  The blasts were synchronized to the local symphony orchestra playing down below in the Princes Gardens.  Very lovely display…probably the best I’ve ever seen.  Not even the guy yelling, ‘Look! It’s money burning in the sky’ could ruin the fireworks for me- I loved them!

Inside Edinburgh Castle- I would make a good damsel in distress

Canon view from Edinburgh castle

            The main draw of the city was the magnificent Edinburgh castle that was resting on a sheer volcanic rock so I was excited to check it out the following day.  There was an underground prison that was used during the American Revolution, which was cool to see and hear about.  I hadn’t heard America mentioned much since I left so it was good to hear our name finally get in the history books.  I walked through the room where Mary, Queen of Scots gave birth to James VI and got a lasting impression from the Crown Jewels and Stone of Destiny.  But all I could think about was many people had fought for this castle. The castle had changed hands so many times as Scotland repeatedly defended their independence from the greedy British monarch.  There were so many lives lost throughout the many battles to preserve this castle...and now it’s nothing but a walking ground for tourists.  I wonder if this city is actually being haunted by the spirits of those died defending this castle.  I’d be pretty mad too if I gave my life for my country and they turned it into an overpriced spectacle recited by audio guide.

On the advice of Doug Christiansen, I took the bus out to Cramond where I walked out to the island during low tide.  The concrete barracks had been resurrected during WW2 but now served as graffiti grounds for the ignorant and inconsiderate.  It was more mentally than physically difficult to maneuver around all the broken glass and litter.  Scottish punks!  The coolest part of going out to Cramond though was seeing the concrete pylons that remained hidden at high tide.  They were used to keep out stealth submarines during both world wars. 

Clock flower arrangement in Edinburgh

Don't be fooled by this romantic heart.  It marks the location of the old tax collectors in Edinburgh...locals spit on it as they pass!

Another great museum that I visited was the Writers’ Museum that paid tribute to Sir Walter Scott, Robert Louis Stevenson, David Hume and Robert Burns. The guide book didn’t even mention the National Monument at the top of Calton Hill but it’s where I got some of my best pictures!  I just chilled up there for hours and watched the sun go down.   What a fantastic city!  After four days in just Edinburgh, I still felt like there was plenty more to see!