Friday, November 11, 2011

Marry me, Switzerland.

INTERLAKEN, SWITZERLAND
Ahhhhh!!!  Switzerland

After much internal debate, I decided that trains would be my method of transportation around Europe. I booked my “Flexi” EuroRail Pass in Paris, which was anything but flexible. It was full of hidden fees, special restrictions and many French inconveniences. But damn those trains were nice! Each row of the immense corn fields across the French countryside flashed by rapidly yet the first class cabin was filled with serenity. I arrived into the cold and rainy town of Interlaken, Switzerland around 2pm and felt very much at home.

I followed my couch surfing host’s explicit directions to an apartment just past the train station and found ‘the door with beers and helmets outside’. Yup, that must be the place. I walked into the kitchen to find my host, Toby, drinking with two Asian girls from California. All were drunk and encouraged me to drop my bag and grab a beer. Whoo-ee! Toby worked as a canyoneering tour guide and was hosting an after-after-party with Jen and Eileen who had enjoyed the day by sliding down the natural waterslides of the Swiss Alps. They threw a cowboy hat on my head and mistakenly called me Ellen- they dubbed her my alter ego and the name stuck for the next few days.

Jen (special education teacher) and Eileen (nurse) were enjoying a 2 week European tour so we crammed in all the laughs we could in our one night together over some beer and Thai food. They were SO much fun- a huge (but far too brief) highlight to the trip! Although Toby’s apartment had spray paint on the walls and was less kept than any hockey house I’ve ever been in, I had my own room and awoke each morning with a gorgeous view of paragliders making their way down from the Swiss Alps. Toby was a very chilled out New Mexican that split his year between Interlaken and New Zealand and showed tourists a fantastic time. He lived life with little regret and little possessions- what a good combination, huh?  He was a good soul.

And he showed me a great time! His group of friends, roommates and housemates all worked within the tourism industry and shared the same unbounded spirit. He had warned me that if I sat around long enough, I’d probably get roped into doing something crazy. And that’s exactly what happened on the second day. I went downstairs to ask his South African friend, Rayno, for directions but got persuaded to go cliff walking for the day! Next thing I know I’m scaling the face of a cliff like Spiderwoman with nothing below my feet except a slippery metal rung. We took a couple trams up the side of the Jungfrau mountain range to Murren, a small village with nothing but tranquility.  No cars were allowed- the village was only accessible by tram or the old two feet and a heartbeat. We threw on some harnesses and attached ourselves to cables that allowed us to follow along the face of cliffs. This was by far the scariest part of my trip! And the most FUN. It was at about 3000 feet that I said, ‘I couldn’t feel more exposed if I were naked in front of my high school class.’  We were fortunate enough to watch some base jumpers plunge off the side of the cliff before we started! It was INSANE- now you see them, now you don’t! Cliff walking was nothing compared to that.  That’s been a theme on this trip- no matter how adventurous you think you are, there is ALWAYS someone who puts you to shame. 
Meghan and me cliff-walking

Rayno on the tight-rope

Swinging bridge


For over two hours, the surrounding Lauterbrunnen valley was disturbed by the sound of us clipping and un-clipping our carabineers around the edges. We encountered metal rungs, ladders, tight-ropes and a grand finale 262 foot narrow tower bridge that hung 1200 feet over a ravine! I had put so much trust in Rayno but was reminded at the end that it was HIS first time cliff-walking as well. What a GREAT day! An extreme feeling for such a neutral country.

That evening, Toby’s friends came together for a communal dinner of racquelette, a Swiss tradition similar to fondue. The meat and veggies were cooked on top while the cheese slowly melted on the bottom. Put them all together and you’ve got yourself a VERY happy belly. And the company was great. Toby’s network were all traveling, nomadic bad asses whose only agenda consisted of 5 months in one location, 5 months in another, and 2 months of traveling. They had no job set up in the next location- just the high hope that they’d find something once they landed. Their lives were based on short-term plans only. It was interesting to be amongst this extremely laid-back lifestyle. No one here griped about the economic doom that currently plagued the world. They had no 401k or stock options to worry about. They were happy, hard-working individuals that made enough money for living and traveling. I questioned how long one can go on like this though. Surely things would change once love came to town, no? Priorities had to change once kids came into the picture, right? I have to assume yes because there were no rugrats amongst the crowd.

Considering my surrounding landscape, I had no choice but to spend a lot of time outdoors during my time in Interlaken. I borrowed Toby’s bike for an arduous 30km bike ride to Grindelwald, which is situated between the craggy trio of the Wetterhorn (Virgin), Mettenberg (Monk) and Eiger (Ogre). I learned that the Monk is situated in the middle so as to protect the innocent Virgin from the Ogre- that’s the extent of my Interlaken knowledge unfortunately. I took the tram to the top of First peak and had a beautiful hike toward the twin reservoirs before forcing my knees to withstand the two hour walk down to the base. The mountain valleys of Switzerland were filled with the ringing of cowbells! And I’m not talking about my mom’s kind of cow bells that echoed throughout many a college arena. These cowbells were HUGE! The cows wore them around their necks so that the farmers could keep tabs on them while grazing in the mountains.  They had to be deaf though to withstand such bells all day.  I got a nice kiss from a cow while making my way down First.  It was very sweet….but their tongues are 10x more coarse than a cat’s!  I had to check for scratches.

Atop First

First hike

Grindelwald

            I gave my body a rest after the ride to Grindelwald by laying by the lake for an afternoon.  I had consistent 70 degree weather, which was perfect for lounging.  I gave my body the minimum amount of time to rest so that I could hike nearby Harder Klum.  And I ended up hiking it twice- both rain and shine just to marvel its beauty.    
Interlaken

Interlaken town center
            In conclusion, in case you haven't been able to comprehend, I LOVE SWITZERLAND! I LOVE SWITZERLAND! I LOVE SWITZERLAND! I don’t want to go picking favorite countries or anything but….Geez! I had visited Interlaken in 2002 but experienced such terrible weather that I thought it was deserving of another chance. And man, I was right! I want to buy myself one of those dark brown chalet houses, stuff its flowerboxes to the brim, stack my wood in a perfect line and live the rest of my life eating chocolate and cheese in Switzerland! Grindelwald to be exact.

Friday, October 28, 2011

FRIEND OF FOE FRIDAY!!!!!!

This week's edition is no indication of the number of foes I actually met in Paris....


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1) FRIEND!  This woman was a couch surfer in Paris that saw that I was in her area and invited me out for coffee.  She toured me around different neighborhoods in Paris and took me for some mouth-watering crepes in St. Louis.  I even got to experience Paris in the rain- special thanks to her umbrella!

2) FRIENDS!  My hosts!  Yanis (on the left) visited NYC back in March and I met him and his fellow hockey-playing friends in a bar.  He gave me an open invitation to stay with his family if/when I visited Paris.  I don’t know if he really expected a knock on his door 6 months later but he got one!  I stayed with Yanis, his twin brother, and mom in their lovely abode within the suburbs of Paris!  What great hosts!!  Yanis even scraped together enough hockey equipment for me to play with his team during my stay. 

 3) FRIENDS!  This sweet couple took a picture of me in Paris.  We got to talking since they were American and were excited to spill their beans- he had proposed at the Eiffel Tower two days earlier!  They were both very excited to share the news since they had no family or friends with them!  Brownie points to that guy. 

              4)  FRIENDS! Alexia (next to me) contacted me back in March through Couch Surfing because she was visiting NYC. I wasn’t able to host her but I did meet her in the Big Apple while I was visiting in July. Alexia hosted me in Paris for the first few days and was sweet enough to lend me a little black dress so that we could hit up “French Tuesdays” at some swanky bar. The dress codes are strict, the drinks are expensive and the heels are high on Tuesdays in Paris! The other girls were friends of Alexia from Paris, NYC and Brazil. We danced until there were blisters…

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

I dunno Lloyd...

 PARIS, FRANCE

            The 10 hour overnight bus ride from Edinburgh to London was kind of brutal- slightly hot, pretty uncomfortable, and completely sold out.  We arrived early though so I was able to stretch for 30 minutes before boarding my next bus- only 8 hours more Paris!  I hadn’t researched the English chunnel tickets and I was paying the price aboard smelly buses.  I’ve gotten used to it all at this point though so it really wasn’t that bad.  I was half asleep when we made it to the French border so I gave them my passport while still wearing my green froggy eye mask.  Do you think they were offended by the French ‘frog’ innuendo or could it have gone unnoticed?

Back in March I had received a couch surfing request from a girl named Alexia.  We had coffee in NYC in July and she offered to host me in Paris!  I stayed with Alexia for my first few days in Paris and it was great to come and go from the Universitaire area as I pleased.  The subway systems in Paris were enormous yet so easy to follow.  I don’t know how I would have done with any of this traveling had I not lived in NYC for so long.  Nothing seems too daunting after surviving Rockefeller Center at Christmas time. 
             With the help of Alexia, I set out to experience all the clichés of Paris.  I saw all the must-sees so maybe I’ll start with that.  The Arc de Triomphe was as massive as it was stunning.  I really enjoyed this Parisian landmark during the day- its white marble gave a clean, sharp, sophisticated look that simultaneously encompassed an aura of both new and old.  The Champs Elysees shopping street was my least favorite site- way too many fast-food joints and chain stores.  The street felt so divided since there were 5 lanes of traffic separating the shopping district- there was nothing leisurely about my stroll down this street.  The Place de Concorde was very cool- a gold-tipped obelisk from the temple of Luxor that Napoleon may or may not have stolen from the Egyptians.  It served as a nice Segway into the park and museum district.

Arc de Triomphe

Concorde




I grabbed a baguette from the bakery and some brie from the cheesery and headed toward the Jardin des Tuilleries for a late afternoon snack on an uncomfortable patio folding chair.  A real Parisian man sat down and I enjoyed an hour of conversation.  I listened to him quote his favorite philosophers in an attempt to poetically describe his own views on life and love.  I’m not sure if he really felt this way or if he was shamelessly flirting with me.  Either way, he wore out his welcome and I bid him adieu in search of something more style- ice hockey.


                I met my second host, Yanis, when he visited NYC with 4 of his friends in March.  They all played ice hockey and he promised to host me if I ever came to Paris.  Not only did he allow me to stay with his mother, brother and him in the outskirts of Paris but he also arranged for me to play hockey with his team!  This was incredible considering how much equipment is needed to play.  It’s not like basketball where you throw on some sneakers and run around.  He found everything!  Sure, it was all too big for me and the skates weren’t sharp enough to butter bread but it was so cool!  I tuned out while the captain explained the drills in French and then just jumped in once I knew what they were doing.  My blades chattered at each turn and tapeless stick made it difficult to catch a pass but I don’t think the guys minded.  Yanis went above and beyond to show me a great time- I don’t think there was one other backpacker in Paris playing ice hockey that night! 

The next morning, I was transformed back into a backpacker and continued getting lost… I mean,I continued to effortlessly tour around Paris.  I put my sore muscles to work on the staircase from the metro leading up to the glorious district of Montmarte.  The workout was just as strenuous as the guidebook lead on!  The Sacre Couer (Sacred Heart Church) was lovely as was the city overlook.  I didn’t feel the artistic presence as strongly as others indicated but maybe I hadn’t strayed far enough off the souvenir streets.  Or maybe I lack the artistic spirit.
             As if I hadn’t received enough rewarding culture already, I visited the Louvre and Musee d’Orsay where culture is practically served intravenously.  The dates on the paintings and sculptures were just incomprehensible.  I was starting to feel pretty insignificant in the grand scheme of the universe.  I didn’t even understand the hype behind the infamous Mona Lisa and will guarantee that 99% of the mob surrounding her didn’t either.  I thought there were far more impressive pieces housed in the same room.  In reality, I only saw a fraction of the Louvre and didn’t enjoy it nearly as much as Musee d’Orsay!  Monet, Renoir, Van Gogh, and Picasso were much more rewarding to my non-artistic soul.  I took some pictures of my favorite paintings so that I would never forget them.  In both museums, there were so many impressive forms of expression that I will never live up to.  I blame it on television and blogs.  J

After three days in Paris, I was ready for the main event.  The Eiffel tour was indeed beautiful and I took oodles of pictures as if I were arranging my senior yearbook page.  I didn’t take the elevator ride to the top- not because of the hideous queue but because I realized on this trip that I enjoy looking up to admire, rather than looking down.  My personal photographer (and host), Yanis, was SO patient when trying to capture the perfect picture for me.  I think I enjoyed the ambience more at night but strangers were so useless when it came to taking pictures.   




Special thanks for the stranger that took this horrendous picture.

I experienced some phenomenal weather during my six days in Paris which allowed me to bask in the city’s plethora of parks.  Luxembourg was my favorite by far- just so pretty with its flowers and fountains!  I can see why people fall in love in (and with) Paris since the simple pleasures of life just pump love into the air.  I know I fell head over heels for my baguette while calmly watching the sun set over the Eiffel Tower. 
            As for the title of this blog entry, I have to say I agree with Harry Dunn.  The French ARE assholes.  I respect their love for their culture and their quest in retaining as much as possible in their wonderful city.  But when I ask them for directions IN FRENCH and they repeatedly ignore me until finally saying that they don’t speak English then we have a problem.  I’ve NEVER just blatantly ignored someone on the streets of NYC.  I didn’t understand French but I did understand RUDE.  No one loves the tourist season in their respective town but it’s never an excuse to be an asshole.  Besides a couple exceptions, the French were by far the worst locals I have met on my trip.  I guess someone had to come in last place- Congrats, France.  I’m sure things are different on the countryside but I won’t have a chance to find out during this trip.  I couldn’t be happier to move on to Switzerland.
Shopping in Paris never hurt anyone...


If you'd like to see more pics from Paris:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.932122232427.2367357.1611207&type=1&l=d48550e26a

FOODS I TRIED: croissants, eclairs, baguettes, brie cheese, banana and nutella crepe, chestnut spread with whipped cream, crepe quiche, ham/cheese pizza panini thing...all the food was amazing!

Sunday, October 23, 2011

Trendwatch: Paris

              Paris continues to attract trendsetters!  These monks’ vibrant orange robes may as well be translucent since it was their socks + sandals combo that drew my attention!  Was it too cold to wear their Air Jordans?  What do Monks usually wear under there?  I’ve never gotten a good look at their footwear until now.

Saturday, October 22, 2011

Trendwatch: Paris

            I know Kawasaki for manufacturing some of the fastest and sleekest jet skis but had no idea they had expanded their production line to include sneakers!  This Parisian male was photographed on the dry platforms of the metro so there is no way of knowing if these sneakers are waterproof and approved for jet skiing.  I’m guessing not.

Friday, October 21, 2011

Trendwatch: Paris

                Melts in your mouth, not in your hand!  This woman painted each one of her toenails a different color- together they kind of look like M&Ms!  I’ve never been so grossed out by M&Ms until now.  Feet are nasty even when they look like chocolate treats.  I like her heels though!