Wednesday, January 4, 2012

Elegant and Sophisticated Vienna

VIENNA, AUSTRIA

               When I first conjured up the idea of traveling in 2011, I wanted to live in Vienna.  I had visited in 2003 and thought it was the most gorgeous European city I had ever seen.   Granted, I hadn’t seen many European cities at that point but I still felt confident about Vienna’s beauty.  So my original trip intentions were to travel for 3 months and then spend 9 months here.  I thought that, as wonderful as it would be to see many places, it would be more rewarding to be submerged in one place.  And Vienna is a beautiful place to be submerged.



               But now that I had traveled to many other cities around the world, I was really nervous to see Vienna.  Was it as impressive as I had remembered?  Was I just being naïve and foolish?  Perhaps its major sights wouldn’t even hold a candle to the Opera House of Sydney, Eiffel Tower of Paris, Temple Bar of Dublin, castle of Edinburgh or the Statue of Liberty in New York.  I was really nervous that I would have to admit that I didn’t know jack about Europe, urban planning, or myself.

               Trenton and I took an evening bus from Bratislava and miraculously made it to his friend’s apartment at the Nussdorfer Strasse metro stop.  Friedi had a cute apartment that was just full of character.  I love to observe people’s home decorations- It’s amazing how, given the same amount of space, every human being can utilize it so differently. Lucky for us, Friedi was generous enough to share her creative space with two Americans for four days!

Po-Po at Metro Stop
               The next morning, we contemplated buying 2-day metro passes.  Friedi had only been asked for her ticket once in 5 years from the Vienniese Police.  Unfortunately, it was the one time she wasn’t carrying it and received a heavy fine of 60 euros.  We were warned that there could be undercover cops on the trains or barricades at different station exits on different days that may ask for your ticket.  We decided to do the right thing and couldn’t have been happier with our decision.  At our first exit, the police were lined up just waiting for us.  We smiled extra wide when showing off our recent validation!  Apparently the police don’t give high-fives for doing the right thing.

Viennese cafe in the rain
Loving Vienna!
               We got off at the popular Stephenplatz metro stop and made a quick visit to St. Stephen’s Cathedral to avoid the rain.  This had been the location where my sister, Gayle, and I had met my parents when we all visited my brother, Glenn, in 2003.  As we made our way up the chic shopping streets, I felt my whole body become lighter.  Vienna WAS as gorgeous as I remembered!  Everything in sight was filled with such sophistication.  Each building and statue had been polished to the brightest of white.  The wrought-iron fences contained more ornate detail than I could have ever imagined.  I was under an enchanted spell as I made my way under the archways leading to the Habsburg Palace.  Poor Trenton- I must have asked him 10 times- Isn’t this city AMAZING??!!


               We walked a good portion of the Ringstrasse in the rain until we sought refuge in a ritzy café for the remainder of the afternoon.  We tried our best to find a small, cozy café that could accommodate two frugal backpackers but to no avail.  Vienna was far too classy for us!  We were underdressed for most of our time there.  After eating from an Asian street kiosk called ‘Funny Noodles’, Trenton didn’t feel so well.  Who could have predicted an upset stomach from such a fine establishment??  :)  I spent the rest of the rainy evening getting lost among the streets of Vienna on my own and was able to fulfill the Beatles' song ‘Ballad of John and Yoko’- “Finally made the trip to Vienna…eating chocolate cake in a bag”. Yummy stuff. 
Beatles rendition

               I made it back to Friede’s apartment just in time for trivia night at the pub next door.  I hate trivia.  It really exposes the cold, harsh truth that I’m not very smart.  Our female team represented four different countries- Germany, Austria, Ireland and America and I was definitely useless.  Most of the trivia was based on American history and the team would look to me with eager eyes.  Why so many questions about a country that is so young compared to surrounding Europe??  We were in Austria- why couldn’t there have been more trivia that could have justified me not knowing?  We didn’t come away winners (thanks to me) but we did answer some bonus questions that won us some free delicious shots.   

A blend of Monet and me
               The next day, Friede played tour guide and brought us all around the city.  My favorite surprise site was a staircase outside of the Albertina museum which promoted the Monet to Picasso exhibit.  A Monet watercolor entitled ‘The Waterlily Pond’ was painted/layered on the outside of the steps which looked entirely different when walking up versus walking down.  It was such a small, unexpected part of my trip to Vienna and it ended up being the ultimate highlight.  There was something about it that just made me smile both inside and out.


Gardens at Shonbrunn Palace
We carried on to the Shonbrunn Palace about 30 minutes outside of the city center.  I was surprised that, despite having 1,441 rooms, there was no vacancy for an American backpacker such as myself.  The former Habsburg Palace served as a summer residency and has been one of the most popular Viennese tourist attractions since the 1960s.  The palace’s exterior was rather ordinary but the surrounding gardens and labyrinth were reassuringly regal.  I insisted that we climb the hill that lead to the Gloriette on the opposite side of the gardens where we could look out over the city.  Ahhhh Vienna! 

Shonbrunn Palace
Shonbrunn Palace


Belvedere Castle
Friede was kind enough to extend the tour to Naschmakt which was a large outdoor market that had a surprising amount of Turkish delight.  We visited the decadent church at Karlsplatz before heading to famous Belvedere Castle (built in the early 1700s).  Can you imagine having so many castles in your backyard?   This castle in particular was the former home of Franz Ferdinand, the man whose death supposedly triggered WWI.  The palace is now a museum but we were too tuckered out.  Instead, we got some Veal Schnitzel from a street vendor and had a very relaxing evening while watching ‘Vanilla Sky’.  Personally, I think that movie was the beginning of the end for Tom Cruise but it got me thinking about other things as well.  Because I was moving around so much during my entire trip, I rarely took the time to sit down and watch a movie.  I always felt like I should be engaging in the culture in one way or another….or checking in with my boyfriend and family located 7000 and 4000 miles away, respectively.  But, man, the couple times when I actually just sat and let a movie entertain me were so rewarding.  It all made me think about routine.  I’d say the majority of human beings enjoy routine.  When placed in a new environment, we like it best when we have mastered the system and can control it to our own desired speed and comfort.  Otherwise, life can feel very messy and time can feel wasted.  But, interestingly enough, once we’ve mastered the system and established a routine, we crave a diversion.  It’s in the diversions that our lives are revived with zest and we have the energy to keep going with the day-to-day.  Those couple hours of watching ‘Vanilla Sky’ restored my faith in the necessity for balance in life.  Here I was in gorgeous Vienna where the world was my oyster and all I wanted to do was watch a crappy movie.  And I’m ok with that.

               On the last day, I took one more trip downtown to see pretty Vienna before I had to catch my plane.  I’m not sure if I had mentioned this before on the blog but I decided to buy an ornament from every country I visited during 2011.  I figured it was a nice tradition to start as I came upon the age where I should be decorating my own Christmas tree.  I also thought that ornaments would be an easy souvenir to carry with me.  However, I knew I’d be meeting my parents at my next destination so I could unload some unwanted weight from my backpack and put it in theirs.  Aren’t parents the best?  I smiled as the Viennese man wrapped up my sophisticated ornament from the sophisticated city.  Vienna was even better than I remembered.  And perhaps I will live here in another life…like in Vanilla Sky….a life where I speak German fluently and eat Viennese chocolate cake from a bag every day. J






 More pics from Vienna: http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.979016915107.2374748.1611207&type=1&l=c06da94a0a
FOODS I TRIED: veal schnitzel, funny noodles, sausage with cheese, Averna shot (yum), dragonfruit

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